A Wine Safari in South Africa

If you are on safari, consider South Africa.  South Africa was once a backwater of industrialized overproduction.  Until the end of Apartheid, most makers only sold within South Africa and few had their own labels.  This changed radically in the last few decades, returning South Africa at least partially to it's historical glory.  While technically a New World wine region, South Africa has over 300 years of winemaking traditions.  At one point, European royalty held South African wines in the highest regards with Vin de Constance considered particularly luxurious.

With a wide range of microclimates, South Africa is home to an amazing diversity of wines.  Once known for Cinsault (one of the parents of the indigenous Pinotage) and now known for Sauvignon Blanc, South African wine is ever evolving.  As with European regions, the focus is now more on quality than quantity and on creating unique wines that highlight the local terroir and cuisine.  Where else could you experience a springbok steak with a local Cabernet Sauvignon, or gemsbok with a Pinotage?  How about seafood straight out of the water with a delightful Sauvignon Blanc or Chenin Blanc made within sight of the fishing boats?  Even Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, those delicate Burgundian varietals have found unique and wonderful expressions in South Africa.

Even more unique is hearing about the challenges of growing grapes and making wine in a country like South Africa.  Whether it's the booming price for land or the challenges of going organic after many fields were over-farmed and over-fertilized during the embargo/collective years or the reputation for mediocre wine (I can assure that this is massively overblown).  One wine maker even commented that leopards had moved into the mountains just above the vineyards!

Stellenbosch

Stellenbosch is a wonderful university town right in the center of the wine country.  Only an hour outside of Cape Town, it's an easy drive or inexpensive car hire.  Within 30 minutes of Stellenbosch proper you have several distinct microclimates - rolling hills, mountainside and flatlands - and many historic wineries.  Vergelegen, for example, was once the property of the Governor back in the days of the Dutch East India company and has been making wine since the late 17th century.  An afternoon spent here and you feel as if you have gone back in time.  The grounds of Vergelegen still have the old manor house, the cellars now converted to a library, the gardens and opulence you can see of a 17th century aristocrat as well as a modern tasting room and gorgeous patio.  Contrast that with modern wineries in the foothills like Thelema, Tokara and Delaire-Graff or traditional wineries like Meerlust and Kanonkop.  With every third (or every other) winery there is an excellent restaurant for lunch or dinner.  Traveling should be this luxurious.

Notable Varietals

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Notable because South Africa has some exceptional versions.
• Pinotage - I need to call out here that there is Pinotage and then Pinotage.   This varietal is not only unique to South Africa but also emblematic of the troubles the wine industry has had.  Just like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, there has been too much bad Pinotage made in recent history.  However, there are many wonderful examples of what this varietal can do in its native soils.  Take time to discover and appreciate this unique varietal while traveling in South Africa.
• Cinsault - once over exploited and now on old vines
• Chenin Blanc - Think 40+ year old vines.  Delightful.
• Sauvignon Blanc - A mainstay, workhorse in the South African market.  Don't be afraid to say that there is too much green pepper in your glass if you don't like it.  Some of it is quite wonderful.
• Merlot - Companion to Cabernet Sauvignon in many blends, quite approachable.
• Chardonnay - Better wineries are beginning to understand that oak is a negative so light oaking is becoming the norm.  Sometimes boring, sometimes exceptional.
• Pinot Noir - At their heights they begin to manifest terroir like Bourgogne, especially in the Himmel-en-Aarde valley.
• Grenache - Becoming a single varietal wine in the Swartland like no other.
• Syrah - From hotter areas north of Stellenbosch, often experimental and delightful.
• Cabernet Franc
• Sémillon
• Viognier
• Riesling

Notable Wines

• MCC - Methode Cap Classique - Traditional method sparkling wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a twist.  Quite often the third wine in Chenin Blanc, making this bubbly more exotic, and tinged with tropical fruits while maintaining the caramel and toast flavors we love in Champagne.
• Vin de Constance - Made in the same fashion as the original now lost to history.  Klein Constantia and others have revived this incredible dessert wine.  Using Muscat de Frontignan and allowing the grapes to shrivel on the vines yields tremendous sugars and acids to create a long-lived and sumptuous dessert wine.